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An Aperol Spritz, built on Nino Franco's Prosecco. Salt in the prosciutto makes the spritz feel fuller and softens the bitter edge of the Aperol, so the first sip and the first bite flatter each other.

Two dry, high-acid whites. Their acidity cuts through the fat in the cheeses and cured meats, the salt on the board makes both feel rounder, and the tomatoes and marinated vegetables bring acid of their own, which makes the wines taste fruitier and softer than they do alone.

Gavi's high acidity and light body sit with the salad and the risotto. The three reds carry high tannin and high acidity, and the steak is their anchor: its fat and protein soften that grip, and the acidity in the wines keeps the truffle butter from feeling heavy. Mushrooms and truffle are rich in umami, which makes a tannic red feel firmer, so taste the reds with the steak first and the risotto second.

A sweet dessert makes a dry wine taste thin and sour, so the rule is simple: the wine should be at least as sweet as the plate. Recioto is, and its dried-cherry flavors meet the cherries head on.